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Deadly ambush of mining convoy shocks Burkina Faso

publish 2022-05-02,browse 4
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the whole available portion of the deck, poop included, was in possession of a crowd of youngsters, many mere boys, from the abruzzi, destined to exchange their rags and emptiness for the gay uniform and good rations of king ferdinands soldiery. in point of physical comfort, their gain must be immense; and very bad must be that government which, despite of these advantages, has forced upon the soldiers mind discontent and disaffection. no doubt, the spectacle of the swiss regiments doubly paid, and (on sundays at least) trebly intoxicated, has something to do with this ill feeling. the raggedness of this troop could be paralleled only by that of the immortal regiment with whom their leader declined to march through coventry, and was probably even more quaint and fantastic in its character. chief in singularity were their hats, if hat be the proper designation of the volcanic-looking gray cone which adhered to the head by some inscrutable dynamic law, and seemed rather fitted for carrying out the stratagem of shoeing a troop of horse with felt than for protecting a human skull. a triple row of scalloped black velvet not unfrequently bore testimony to the indomitable love of the nation for ornament; and the same decoration might be found on their garments, whose complicated patchwork reminded us of the humble original from which has sprung our brilliant harlequin. shortly our attention was solicited by a pantomimic roscius, some ten or twelve years old, who, having climbed over the taffrail and cleared a stage of some four feet square, dramatized all practicable scenes, and many apparently impracticable, for he made nothing of presenting two or three personages in rapid interchange. words were needless, and would have been useless, as the unloading of railway bars by a brawny northumbrian and his crew drowned all articulate sounds. notwithstanding these varied amusements, we were not sorry to see arrive, first, a gray general, obviously the triton of our minnows, and close behind him the health and police officers of the government, to whose paternal solicitude for our mental and bodily health was to be ascribed our long delay in port. these beneficent influences, incarnated in the form of two portly gentlemen in velvet waistcoats,an italian wears a velvet waistcoat, if he can get one, far into the hot months,began their work of summoning by name each individual from the private to the general, then the passengers, then the crew, and finally, much to our relief, reëmbarked in the boat, and left us free to pursue our voyage. we soon left behind the ominous cone of vesuvius, reported by the best judges to be at present in so unsound a state that nothing can prevent its early fall; sunset left us near the grand precipices of anacapri, and morning found us with ustica on our beam, and the semicircle of mountains which enchase the gem of palermo gradually unfolding their beauties. by ten, a.m., we were in harbor and pulling shorewards to subject ourselves to the scrutiny of custom-house and police. our passports duly conned over, the functionary, with a sour glance at our valanced faces, inquired if we had letters for any one in the island. never before had such a question been asked me, nor ever before could i have given other than an humble negative. but the kindness of a friend had luckily provided me with a formidable shield, and a reply, given with well-assumed ease, that i had letters from the english ambassador for the viceroy, smoothed the grim feature, and released us from the dread tribunal. the custom-house gave no trouble, and we reëmbarked to cross about half a mile of water which separated us from the city gate. here, however, we were destined to experience the influence of the sunny clime: our two stout boatmen persisted in setting their sail, under the utterly false pretence that there was some wind blowing, and fully half an hour elapsed ere we set foot ashore. this gave me ample time to recall the different aspect of palermo when first i saw it, in 1849. i had accompanied the noble squadron, english and french, which carried to the sicilian government the _ultimatum_ of the king of naples. the scenes of that troubled time passed vividly before me: the mutual salutes of the admirals; the honors paid by each separately to the flag of sicily, that flag which we had come to strike,for such we all knew must be the effect of our withdrawal. i recollected the manly courtesy with which the sicilians received us, their earnest assurances that they did not confound our involuntary errand with our personal feelings; and how, when a wild greek mountaineer from the piano de greci, unable to comprehend the intricacies of politics, and stupidly imagining that those who were not for him were against him, had insulted one of our officers, the bystanders had interposed so honorably and so swiftly that even the hot blood of our fiery cymrian had neither time nor excuse to rise to the boiling-point. i recalled the scene in the parliament house, when the replies to the kings message, which had been sent by each chief town, were read by the speaker: the grave indignation of some,the somewhat bombastic protestations of others,the question put of submission or war,the shout of _guerra! guerra!_ ringing too loud, methought, to be good metal; the _suoni la tromba_ at that nights theatre,the digging at the fortifications,women carrying huge stones,men more willing to shout for them than to do their own share,capuchin friars digging with the best,finally, the wild dance of men, women, cowled and bearded monks, all together, brandishing their spades and shovels in cadence to the military band. with this came to me the mild smile and doubtful shake of the head of the good admiral baudin, and his prophetic remark,i have seen much fighting in various parts of the world; and if these men mean to fight, i cannot comprehend them. while this mental diorama was unrolling, even sicilian laziness had time to reach the shore; and passing by a rough mass of rocks, where our second cutter had once run too close for comfort, and the friedlands launch had upset and lost two men, we at length landed close to the city gate. a custom-house officer pounced on us for a fee, notwithstanding our examination on first landing, and (_uno avulso, non deficit aureus alter_,) at the city gate, not thirty yards distant, a third repeated the demand, equivalent to your money or your keys. a capital breakfast at the trinacria hotel was the fitting conclusion to these oft-recorded troubles, and the gratifying news that the viceroy had just left the island for naples obviated the necessity of a formal visit, and left us free to enjoy the notabilities of palermo. the plan of this beautiful city is very simple, being a tolerably accurate square, surrounded by walls, of which the northern face skirts the sea, and the southern faces the head of the lovely valley in which the city stands,the golden shell. two perfectly straight streets, intersecting in a small, but highly ornamented _piazza_, traverse the city. the toledo, or via cassaro,for it bears both these designations,runs from the sea to the monreale gate, close to which is the royal palace, and the cathedral square opens from this street. the via macqueda contains few buildings of interest except the university. between the wall and the sea runs the magnificent marina, a more beautiful promenade than even the villa reale of naples, having on the right the low but picturesque headland of bagaria, while on the left rise the all but perpendicular rocks of monte pellegrino, once the impregnable mountain-throne of hamilcar barcas, and later the spot where in a rude cavern, now sheeted with marble and jasper, from all the youth of sicily, saint rosalie retired to god. the handicraftsmen of palermo still occupy almost exclusively the streets named after their trades,an indication of immobility rarely to be met with nowadays, though rome displays it in a minor degree. we first visited the university museum. numerous pictures, far beyond the ordinary degree of badness, occupy the upper rooms, where the only object of interest is a very fine and well-preserved bronze of hercules and the pompeian fawn, half life-size. but far beyond all else in artistic importance are the _metopes_ from selinuntium, which, though much damaged, show marks of high excellence. they are of clearly different dates, though all very archaic. the oldest represent perseus cutting off the gorgons head, and hercules killing two thieves. perseus has the calm, sleepy look of a hindoo god,while gorgons head, with goggle eyes and protruding tongue, resembles a mexican idol. hercules and the thieves have more of an egyptian character. the material of these bas-reliefs is coarse limestone; and in the _metopes_ on the opposite wall, which are clearly of later date, recourse has been had to a curious method of obtaining delicacy in the female forms: the faces, hands, and feet, which alone are visible from among the drapery, are formed of fine marble. an actæon torn by his dogs is much corroded by sea air, but displays great nobleness of attitude. the vigor in the left arm, which has throttled one of the dogs, can hardly be surpassed. a portion of the _cella_, of one of the temples has been removed hither, and its brilliant polychromy is sufficient to decide the argument as to the existence of the practice, if, indeed, that point be yet in doubt. but it seems that the non-colorists have relinquished the parallel of architecture, which, be it observed, they formerly defended obstinately, and have now intrenched themselves in the citadel of sculpture, intending to hold it against all evidence. the only other object of much interest was a pompeian fresco, representing two actors, whose attitudes and masks are so strikingly adapted to express the first scene of the heautontimorumenos, between menalcas and chremes, that it seems scarcely doubtful that this is actually the subject of the painting. near the upper end of the toledo the cathedral is situated, not very favorably for effect, as only the eastern side is sufficiently free from buildings. it is a noble pile: northern power and piety expressed by the agency of southern and arabic workmen, and somewhat affected by the nationality of the artificer. the stones are fretted and carved more elaborately than those of any french or english cathedral, but entirely in arabesques and diapering of low relief, so that the spectator misses with regret the solemn rows of saints and patriarchs that enrich the portals of our gothic minsters

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