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this is 60
miles from parenzo, and forty from venice, there we remayned that night.
the second two houres before day, with the winde at southeast, we sayled
towards venice, where we arriued (god be praysed) at two of the clocke
after dinner, and landed about foure, we were kept so long from landing,
because we durst not land vntill we had presented to the prouidor de la
sanita, our letter of health.
the first voyage or iourney, made by master laurence aldersey, marchant of
london, to the cities of ierusalem, and tripolis, &c. in the yeere 1581.
penned and set downe by himselfe.
i departed from london the first day of april in the yeere of our lord
1581, passing through the nether-land and vp the riuer rhene by colen, and
other cities of germanie. and vpon thursday, the thirde day of may, i came
to augusta, where i deliuered the letter i had to master ienise, and master
castler, whom i found very willing to pleasure me, in any thing that i
could or would reasonably demaund. he first furnished me with a horse to
venice, for my money, and then tooke me with him a walking, to shew me the
citie, for that i had a day to tary there, for him that was to be my guide.
he shewed me first the statehouse, which is very faire, and beautiful: then
be brought mee to the finest garden, and orchard, that euer i sawe in my
life: for there was in it a place for canarie birdes, as large as a faire
chamber, trimmed with wier both aboue and beneath, with fine little
branches of trees for them to sit in, vhich was full of those canarie
birdes. there was such an other for turtle dooues: also there were two
pigeon houses ioyning to them, hauing in them store of turtle dooues and
pigeons. in the same garden also were sixe or seuen fishponds, all railed
about, and full of very good fish. also, seuen or eight fine fountaines, or
water springs, of diuers fashions: as for fruite, there wanted none of all
sorts, as orenges, figges, raisons, wallnuts, grapes, besides apples,
peares, fillbirds, small nuts, and such other fruite, as wee haue in
then did hee bring mee to the water tower of the same citie, that by a
sleight and deuise hath the water brought vp as high as any church in the
towne, and to tel you the strange deuises of all, it passeth my capacitie.
then he brought me to another faire garden, called the shooters hoose,
where are buts for the long bowe, the cross bowe, the stone bowe, the long
peece, and for diuers other exercises more.
after this, we walked about the walles of the citie, where is a great,
broade, and deepe ditch, vpon one side of the towne, so full of fish, as
euer i saw any pond in my life, and it is reserued onely for the states of
the citie. and vpon the other side of the citie is also a deepe place all
greene, wherein deere are kept, and when it pleaseth the states to hunt for
their pleasure, thither they resort, and haue their courses with
grayhounds, which are kept for that purpose.
the fift of may, i departed from augusta towards venice, and came thither
vpon whitsunday the thirteenth of the same moneth. it is needlesse to
speake of the height of the mountaines that i passed ouer, and of the
danger thereof, it is so wel knowen already to the world: the heigth of
them is marueilous, and i was the space of sixe dayes in passing them.
i came to venice at the time of a faire, which lasted foureteene dayes,
wherein i sawe very many, and faire shewes of wares. i came thither too
short for the first passage, which went away from venice about the seuenth
or eight of may, and with them about three score pilgrims, which shippe was
cast away at a towne called estria, two miles from venice, and all the men
in her, sauing thirtie, or thereabout, lost.
within eight dayes after fell corpus christi day, which was a day amongst
them of procession, in which was shewed the plate and treasure of venice,
which is esteemed to be worth two millions of pounds, but i do not accompt
it woorth halfe a quarter of that money, except there be more than i sawe.
to speake of the sumptuousnesse of the copes and vestments of the church, i
leaue, but the trueth is, they be very sumptuous, many of them set all ouer
with pearle, and made of cloth of golde. and for the iesuits, i thinke
there be as many at venice, as there be in colen.
the number of iewes is there thought to be 1000, who dwell in a certaine
place of the citie, and haue also a place, to which they resort to pray,
which is called the iewes sinagogue. they all, and their offspring vse to
weare red caps, (for so they are commaunded) because they may thereby be
knowen from other men. for my further knowledge of these people, i went
into their sinagogue vpon a saturday, which is their sabbath day: and i
found them in their seruice or prayers, very deuoute: they receiue the fiue
bookes of moses, and honour them by carying them about their church, as the
papists doe their crosse.
their synagogue is in forme round, and the people sit round about it, and
in the midst, there is a place for him that readeth to the rest: as for
their apparell, all of them weare a large white lawne ouer their garments,
which reacheth from their head, downe to the ground.
the psalmes they sing as wee doe, hauing no image, nor vsing any maner of
idolatrie: their error is, that they beleeue not in christ, nor yet receiue
the new testament. this citie of venice is very faire, and greatly to bee
commended, wherein is good order for all things: and also it is very strong
and populous: it standeth vpon the maine sea, and hath many islands about
it, that belong to it.
to tell you of the duke of venice, and of the seigniory: there is one
chosen that euer beareth the name of a duke, but in trueth hee is but
seruant of his seigniorie, for of himselfe hee can doe litle: it is no
otherwise with him, then with a priest that is at masse vpon a festiual
day, which putting on his golden garment, seemeth to be a great man, but if
any man come vnto him, and craue some friendship at his handes, hee will
say, you must goe to the masters of the parish, for i cannot pleasure you,
otherwise then by preferring to your suite: and so it is with the duke of
venice, if any man hauing a suite, come to him and make his complaint, and
deliuer his supplication, it is not in him to helpe him, but hee will tell
him, you must come this day, or that day, and then i will preferre your
suite to the seigniorie, and doe you the best friendship that i may.
furthermore, if any man bring a letter vnto him, hee may not open it, but
in the presence of the seigniorie, and they are to see it first, which
being read, perhaps they will deliuer it to him, perhaps not. of the
seigniory there be about three hundreth, and about fourtie of the priuie
counsell of venice, who vsually are arayed in gownes of crimsen satten, or
crimsen damaske, when they sit in counsell.
in the citie of venice, no man may weare a weapon, except he be a souldier
for the seigniorie, or a scholler of padua, or a gentleman of great
countenance, and yet he may not do that without licence.
as for the women of venice, they be rather monsters then women. euery
shoomakers or taylors wife will haue a gowne of silke, and one to carie vp
her traine, wearing their shooes very neere halfe a yarde high from the
ground: if a stranger meete one of them, he will surely thinke by the state
that she goeth with, that he meeteth a lady.
i departed from this citie of venice, vpon midsommer day, being
the foure and twentieth of iune, and thinking that the ship would
the next day depart, i stayed, and lay a shippeboord all night, and
we were made beleeue from time to time, that we should this day,
and that day depart, but we taried still, till the fourteenth of july,
and then with scant winde we set sayle, and sayled that day and
that night, not aboue fiftie italian miles: and vpon the sixteene
day at night the winde turned flat contrary, so that the master
knewe not what to doe: and about the fift houre of the night,
which we reckon to be about one of the clocke after midnight, the
pilot descried a saile, and at last perceiued it to be a gallie of the
turkes, whereupon we were in great feare.
the master being a wise fellowe, and a good sayler, beganne to deuise howe
to escape the danger, and to loose litle of our way: and while both he, and
all of vs were in our dumps, god sent vs a merry gale of winde, that we
ranne threescore and tenne leagues before it was twelue a clocke the next
day, and in sixe dayes after we were seuen leagues past zante. and vpon
munday morning, being the three and twentie of the same moneth, we came in
the sight of candia which day the winde came contrary, with great blasts
and stormes, vntill the eight and twentie of the same moneth: in which
time, the mariners cried out vpon me, because i was an english man, and
sayd, i was no good christian, and wished that i were in the middest of the
sea, saying, that they, and the shippe, were the worse for me. i answered,
truely it may well be, for i thinke my selfe the worst creature in the
worlde, and consider you your selues also, as i doe my selfe, and then vse
your discretion. the frier preached, and the sermon being done, i was
demaunded whether i did vnderstand him: i answered, yea, and tolde the
frier himselfe, thus you saide in your sermon, that we were not all good
christians, or else it were not possible for vs to haue such weather: to
which i answered, be you well assured, that we are not indeede all good
christians, for there are in the ship some that hold very vnchristian
opinions: so for that time i satisfied him, although (they said) that i
would not see, when they said the procession, and honoured their images,
and prayed to our lady and s. marke.
there was also a gentleman, an italian, which was a passenger in the ship,
and he tolde me what they said of me, because i would not sing, salue
regina and aue maria, as they did: i told them, that they that praied to so
many, or sought helpe of any other, then of god the father, or of iesus
christ his onely sonne, goe a wrong way to worke, and robbed god of his
honour, and wrought their owne destructions.
all this was told of the friers, but i heard nothing of it in three daies
after: and then at euening prayer, they sent the purser about with the
image of our lady to euery one to kisse, and i perceiuing it went another
way from him, and would not see it: yet at last he fetched his course
about, so that he came to me, and offered it to me as he did to others, but
i refused it: whereupon there was a great stirre: the patron and all the
friers were told of it, and euery one saide i was a lutheran, and so called
me: but two of the friers that were of greatest authoritie, seemed to beare
me better good will then the rest, and trauelled to the patron in my
behalfe, and made all well againe.
the second day of august we arriued in cyprus, at a towne called missagh:
the people there be very rude, and like beasts, and no better they eat
their meat sitting vpon the ground, with their legges a crosse like
tailors, their beds for the most part be hard stones, but yet some of them
haue faire mattraces to lie vpon.
vpon thursday the eight of august we came to ioppa in a small barke, which
we hired betwixt missagh and salina, and could not be suffered to come on
land till noone the next day, and then we were permitted by the great
basha, who sate vpon the top of a hill to see vs sent away. being come on
land, we might not enter into any house for victuals, but were to content
our selues with our owne prouision, and that which we bought to carie with
vs was taken from vs. i had a paire of stirrops, which i bought at venice
to serue me in my journey, and trying to make them fit for me, when the
basha saw me vp before the rest of the companie, he sent one to dismount
me, and to strike me, whereupon i turned me to the basha, and made a long
legge, saying, grand mercie signior: and after a while we were horsed vpon
litle asses, and sent away, with about fiftie light horsemen to be our
conduct through the wildernesse, called deserta foelix, who made vs good
sport by the way with their pikes, gunnes, and fauchins.
that day being s. laurence day we came to rama, which is tenne italian
miles from ioppa, and there we stayed that night, and payed to the captaine
of the castell euery man a chekin, which is seuen shillings and two pence
sterling. so then we had a new gard of souldiers, and left the other