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they haue also a certaine yeerely sicknesse raigning in the same
towne, aboue all the rest of the island: yet neuerthelesse, they haue it in
other townes, but not so much. it is a certaine rednesse and paine of the
eyes, the which if it bee not quickly holpen, it taketh away their sight,
so that yeerely almost in that towne, they haue about twentie that lose
their sight, either of one eye or both, and it commeth for the most part in
this moneth of october, and the last moneth: for i haue met diuers times
three and foure at once in companies, both men and women. [sidenote: no
vitailes must be sold out of the city of famagusta.] their liuing is better
cheape in famagusta then in any other place of the island, because there
may no kinde of prouision within their libertie bee solde out of the citie.
the second of october we returned to arnacho, where wee rested vntill the
sixt day. [sidenote: greate ruines in cyprus.] this towne is a pretie
village, there are thereby toward the sea side diuers monuments, that there
hath bene great ouerthrow of buildings, for to this day there is no yere
when they finde not, digging vnder ground, either coines, caues, and
sepulcres of antiquities, as we walking, did see many, so that in effect,
all alongst the sea coast, throughout the whole island, there is much ruine
and ouerthrow of buildings, [sidenote: cyprus 36. yeres disinhabited for
lacke of water.] for as they say, it was disinhabited sixe and thirtie
yeres, before saint helens time for lacke of water. [sidenote: cypr.
ruinated by rich. the i.] and since that time it hath bene ruinated and
ouerthrowen by richard the first of that name king of england, which he did
in reuenge of his sisters rauishment comming to ierusalem, the which
inforcement was done to her by the king of famagusta.
the sixt day we rid to nicosia, which is from arnacho seuen cyprus miles,
which are one and twentie italian miles. this is the ancientest citie of
the iland, and is walled about, but it is not strong neither of walles nor
situation: it is by report three cyprus miles about, it is not throughly
inhabited, but hath many great gardens in it, and also very many date
trees, and plentie of pomegranates and other fruites. there dwell all the
gentilitie of the island, and there hath euery cauallier or conte of the
island an habitation. [sidenote: a fountaine that watereth al the gardens
in the citie.] there is in this citie one fountaine rented by saint marke,
which is bound euery eight dayes once, to water all the gardens in the
towne, and the keeper of this fountaine hath for euery tree a bizantin,
which is twelue soldes venice, and sixpence sterling. [sidenote: a bizantin
is 6. d. sterling.] he that hath that to farme, with a faire and profitable
garden thereto belonging, paieth euery yeere to saint marke, fifteene
hundred crownes. the streetes of the citie are not paued, which maketh it
with the quantitie of the gardens, to seeme but a rurall habitation. but
there be many faire buildings in the citie, there be also monasteries both
of franks and greekes. [sidenote: s. sophia is a cathedral church of
nicosia.] the cathedrall church is called santa sophia, in the which there
is an old tombe of iaspis stone, all of one piece, made in forme of a
cariage coffer, twelue spannes long, sixe spannes broad, and seuen spannes
high, which they say was found vnder ground. it is as faire a stone as euer
i haue seene.
the seuenth day we rid to a greeke frierie halfe a mile without the towne.
it is a very pleasaunt place, and the friers feasted vs according to their
abilitie. these friers are such as haue bene priests, and their wiues dying
they must become friers of this place, and neuer after eate flesh, for if
they do, they are depriued from saying masse: neither, after they haue
taken vpon them this order, may they marry againe, but they may keepe a
single woman. these greekish friers are very continent and chast, and
surely i haue seldome seen (which i haue well noted) any of them fat.
the 8. day we returned to arnacho, and rested there. [sidenote: monte de la
croce.] the 9. after midnight my company rid to the hill called monte de la
croce (but i not disposed would not go) which hill is from arnacho 15.
italian miles. vpon the sayd hill is a certaine crosse, which is, they say,
a holy crosse. this crosse in times past did by their report of the island,
hang in the ayre, but by a certaine earthquake, the crosse and the chappeil
it hung in, were ouerthrowen, so that neuer since it would hang againe in
the aire. but it is now couered with siluer, and hath 3. drops of our
lordes blood on it (as they say) and there is in the midst of the great
crosse, a little crosse made of the crosse of christ; but it is closed in
the siluer, you must (if you will) beleeue it is so, for see it you cannot.
this crosse hangeth nowe by both endes in the wall, that you may swing it
vp and downe, in token that it did once hang in the aire. this was told me
by my fellow pilgrimes, for i sawe it not.
the 10. at night we went aboard by warning of the patron: and the 11. in
the morning we set saile, and crept along the shore, but at night we
ankered by reason of contrary windes.
[sidenote: limisso.] the 12. we set saile toward limisso, which is from