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] the first land that we discouered was a headland called cauo de la
criega, and about midnight we ankered by north of the gape. this cape is a
high hil, long and square, and on the east corner it hath a high cop, that
appeareth vnto those at the sea, like a white cloud, for toward the sea it
is white, and it lieth into the sea southwest. this coast of cyprus is high
declining toward the sea, but it hath no cliffes.
the 26. we set saile againe, and toward noone we came into the port of
salini, where we went on land and lodged that night at a towne one mile
from thence called arnacho di salini, this is but a village called in
italian, casalia. this is distant from iaffa 250. italian miles.
the 27. we rested, and the 28. we hired horses to ride from arnacho to
sulina, which is a good mile. the salt pit is very neere two miles in
compasse, very plaine and leuell, into the which they let runne at the time
of raine a quantitie of water comming from the mountaines, which water is
let in vntil the pit be full to a certaine marke, which when it is full,
the rest is conueyed by a trench into the sea. the water is let runne in
about october, or sooner or later, as the time of the yeere doth afforde.
there they let it remaine vntill the ende of iuly or the middest of august,
out of which pits at that time, in stead of water that they let in they
gather very faire white salt, without any further art or labour, for it is
only done by the great heate of the sunne. this the venetians haue, and doe
maintaine to the vse of s. marke, and the venetian ships that come to this
island are bound to cast out their ballast, and to lade with salt for
venice. also there may none in all the iland buy salt but of these men, who
maintaine these pits for s. marke. this place is watched by night with 6.
horsemen to the end it be not stolne by night. also vnder the venetians
dominions no towne may spende any salt, but they must buy it of saint
marke, neither may any man buy any salt at one towne to carie to another,
but euery one must buy his salt in the towne where he dwelleth. neither may
any man in venice buy more salt then he spendeth in the city, for if he be
knowen to carte but one ounce out of the due and be accused, hee looseth an
eare. the most part of all the salt they haue in venice commeth from these
salines, and they have it so plentifull, that they are not able, neuer a
yeere to gather the one halfe, for they onely gather in iuly, august, and
september, and not fully these three moneths. yet notwithstanding the
abundance that the shippes carie away yeerely, there remaine heapes like
hilles, some heapes able to lade nine or tenne shippes, and there are
heapes of two yeeres gathering, some of three and some of nine or tenne
yeeres making, to the value of a great somme of golde, and when the ships
do lade, they neuer take it by measure, but when they come at venice they
measure it. this salt as it lyeth in the pit is like so much ice, and it is
sixe inches thicke: they digge it with axes, and cause their slaues to cary
it to the heapes. this night at midnight we rode to famagusta, which is
eight leagues from salina, which is 24 english miles.
the 29 about two houres before day we alighted at famagusta, and after we
were refreshed we went to see the towne. this is a very faire strong holde,
and the strongest and greatest in the iland. the walks are faire and new,
and strongly rampired with foure principall bulwarkes, and bettweene them
turrions responding one to another, these walks did the venetians make.
they haue also on the hauen side of it a castle, and the hauen is chained,
the citie hath onely two gates, to say, one for the lande and another for
the sea, they haue in the towne continually, be it peace or warres, 800
souldiers, and fortie and sixe gunners, besides captaines, petie captaines,
gouernour and generall the lande gate hath alwayes fiftie souldiers, pikes
and gunners with their harnes, watching thereat night and day. at the sea
gate fiue and twenties upon the walles euery night doe watch fifteene men
in watch houses, for euery watch house fiue men, and in the market place 30
souldiers continually. there may no souldier serue there aboue 5 yeres,
neither will they without friendship suffer them to depart afore 5. yeres
be expired, and there may serue of all nations except greekes. [sidenote:
morenigo.] they haue euery pay which is 45 dayes, 15 morenigos, which is 15
shillings sterling. [sidenote: solde of venice] their horsemen haue only
sixe soldes venetian a day, and prouender for their horses, but truth i
maruell how they liue being so hardly fed, for all the sommer they feede
only vpon chopt strawe and barley, for hay they haue none, and yet they be
faire, fat and seruiceable. [sidenote: castellani] the venetians send euery
two yeres new rulers, which they call castellani. the towne hath allotted
it also two gallies continually armed and furnished.
[sidenote: saint katherens chappel in old famagusta.] the 30. in the
morning we ridde to a chappell, where they say saint katherin was borne.
this chappell is in olde famagusta, the which was destroyed by englishmen,
and is cleane ouerthrowne to the ground, to this day desolate and not
inhabited by any person, it was of a great circuit, and there be to this
day mountaines of faire, great, and strong buildings, and not onely there,
but also in many places of the iland. [sidenote: diuvers coines vnder
ground.] moreouer when they digge, plowe, or trench they finde sometimes
olde antient coines, some of golde, some of siluer, and some of copper, yea
and many tombes and vautes with sepulchers in them. this olde famagusta is
from the other, foure miles, and standeth on a hill, but the new towne on a
plaine. [sidenote: cornari, a family of venice maried to king iaques.]
thence we returned to new famagusta againe to dinner, and toward euening we
went about the towne, and in the great church we sawe the tombe of king
iaques, which was the last king of cyprus, and was buried in the yere of
christ one thousand foure hundred seuentie and three, and had to wife one
of the daughters of venice, of the house of cornari, the which family at
this day hath great reuenues in this island, and by means of that mariage
the venetians, chalenge the kingdome of cyprus.
the first of october in the morning, we went to see the reliefe of the
watches. that done, we went to one of the greekes churches to see a pot or
iarre of stone, which is sayd to bee one of the seuen iarres of water, the
which the lord god at the mariage conuerted into wine. it is a pot of earth
very faire, white enamelled, and faireiy wrought vpon with drawen worke,
and hath on either side of it, instead of handles, eares made in fourme as
the painters make angels wings, it was about an elle high, and small at the
bottome, with a long necke and correspondent in circuit to the botome, the
belly very great and round, it holdeth full twelue gallons, and hath a
tap-hole to drawe wine out thereat, the iarre is very auncient, but whether
it be one of them or no, i know not. the aire of famagusta is very
vnwholesome, as they say, by reason of certaine marish ground adioyning
vnto it